Caring for vintage fabrics

The four enemies: light, damp, heat and pests

The Canadian Conservation Institute (CCI) adds that cooler is better: expected lifetimes for sensitive textiles rise sharply as temperature falls, and temperatures of 5°C and lower greatly reduce pest activity. Very dry air has its own cost — textiles become brittle at low humidity — so aim for stable and moderate rather than extreme.

Clean before you store

The Smithsonian advises storing textiles clean, because dust abrades fibers and soiling encourages mildew. Washable, colorfast items can be washed and stored unironed and unstarched. Items that cannot be washed can be vacuumed gently through fiberglass screening on low suction — but not beaded, painted or embroidered work. For anything fragile, valuable or uncertain, both the Smithsonian and the CCI point to a professional textile conservator rather than home cleaning; the CCI cautions that loose weaves can shrink irreversibly, that wool is vulnerable when wet, and that bleaches are generally harmful.

Fold, roll or hang?

Store flat when you can

Flat storage with as few folds as possible is the Smithsonian's first choice. Pad unavoidable folds with unbleached muslin, old cotton sheets or crumpled acid-free tissue so they don't become sharp creases, and refold along different lines from time to time. Keep the textile on top in a drawer, never under heavier items.

Wrap in cotton, not plastic

Ordinary tissue, wrapping paper and bare wood are acidic and damage textiles. Wrap pieces in clean white cotton or acid-free tissue. Don't seal fabric in airtight plastic; if you use plastic at all, keep it loose and out of direct contact.

Hang only what can take it

The CCI's note on hanging storage says fragile, heavily decorated and weak-shouldered garments should be stored flat, and that knits and bias-cut pieces should not be hung at all — they stretch. That rules out hanging many vintage slips, nightgowns and 1930s gowns. For sturdier garments:

• Use wooden or plastic hangers padded with polyester or cotton batting into a wide, rounded shape, covered in prewashed cotton — “Do not use lightweight wire hangers.”
• Support heavy skirts with cotton tapes sewn inside the waistband and looped over the hook.
• Hang skirts and trousers from the waist with a padded clamp hanger.
• Use a breathable cotton dust cover, and leave at least 10 cm between garments.
• Stuff sleeves lightly with crumpled acid-free tissue to hold their shape.

Handling

The Smithsonian's Museum Conservation Institute asks handlers to “always presume that the textile is unique, irreplaceable, and fragile.” Wash your hands (skip lotion), remove rings and bracelets that snag, work on a clean, flat surface, and keep food, drinks and pens away. The CCI goes further and advises against wearing historic costume at all; for everyday vintage you do wear, gentle handling and good storage between wearings make the biggest difference.

If mold appears

1. Move the item out of the damp space and let it dry on a clean, absorbent surface, with fans circulating air but not aimed at weak fabric. “Do not use an oven or microwave!” (Smithsonian MCI).
2. Find and fix the moisture source.
3. Once dry, vacuum residue gently with a HEPA-filtered vacuum, testing a small area first. The MCI does not recommend wholesale washing or dry cleaning of moldy textiles.
4. Protect yourself with gloves and a mask; anyone with asthma or a weakened immune system should consult a physician first.

A closet checklist

• Interior closet or chest, not attic, basement or exterior wall.
• Out of sunlight; doors closed.
• Clean garments only; inspect woollens for moths every season.
• Knits, bias cuts and fragile pieces folded flat in cotton or acid-free tissue.
• Padded hangers for the rest, spaced apart, under cotton covers.

Before buying, it helps to know what you're looking at: see reading the label and the glossary of vintage terms.